Autumn Festival: La Castanyada in Barcelona

My second autumn in Spain has a different vibe here in Barcelona. While strolling down the 'ramblas' (pedestrian walkways) in bustling urban neighborhoods a nutty, smokey scent wafts through the air: the perfect fragrance of fall. There's a handful of charming traditions here in Catalunya that make this season feel a bit magical.

La Castanyada Festival in Barcelona Spain

La Castanyada (October 31) & Tots Sants (November 1)

The celebration of La Castanyada has roots like many other autumnal festivals seen in Anglo Saxon practices and celebrations like Dia de los Muertos: honoring the dead. The night before All Saint Day ("Tots Sants" in catalan) on November 1st, people honored the dead and lost loved ones by gathering together to eat season foods and treats like chestnuts, sweet potatoes and my new favorite sweet: panellets!

So what might you see around Barcelona as you near the end of October?

Catanyas

Which is catalan for chestnuts, can be seen at small carts on street corners being roasted over a fire. (Yes, just like the American Christmas songs: "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire....."). The smell is heavenly, and you can purchase a handful of them for about $3-4. Usually rolled in a newspaper piping hot, it's a lovely treat during the cold weather when your hands might be chilly! Take care when eating, as you might burn your mouth! It's best to find a park bench so you can pry them open to get to the soft, roasted center.

I tried my first chestnut ever, and I must say: it was a bit underwhelming. it's nutty and dry. I don't think I could eat an entire bag by myself, but nevertheless it was a fun experience during autumn.

Roasting Chestnuts & Roasted Sweet Potatoes

Moniatos

Moniatos is catalan for sweet potato. It's common to see sweet potatoes being roasted along side the chestnuts at the streetside carts. As an American who is used to seasoned and buttered potatoes, it was a bit strange to see them plainly roasted. But again, it was a nice warm snack and definitely a healthy choice too!

La Castanyada and the Castanyera

Here in Barcelona Catalunya, La Castanyada fall on October 31st (yes, Halloween!). My Catalan partner recalls as a kid, singing traditional catalan songs and eating chestnuts. You may even see some of them come dressed as la castanyera (which translates literally to "the chestnut lady" in catalan). La castanyera is the "figure" of this celebration, and was a peasant women dressed in a headscarf, a long skirt, boots and a scarf while she roasted the chestnuts and sold them to people in. the streets. I decided to honor her as my Halloween costume this year! What do you think?

La Castanyera Costume

Panellets

Now to my favorite part, panellets! A simple, yet delicious pastry made with almonds, sugar and pine nuts. They're tiny, but quite expensive as pine nuts have been soaring in price. You can usually head to any bakery ("pastisseria" in catalan) to buy them, but if you'd like to try your hand at making them try my friend (@catalonick) Nick's recipe to make them at home!

Panellets "Little Dough Balls" Recipe

Traditional Panellets Recipe

Ingredients

• White Sugar: 250 grams (1 ¼ cups)

• Almond Flour: 300 grams (2 ⅓ cups)

• Eggs: 2

• Egg Yolks: 3

• Lemon for zest

• Pine Nuts: 250 grams (1 ¼ cups)

Instructions

1. Prepare the Dough:

   • In a large mixing bowl, combine the almond flour, sugar, and lemon zest.

   • Add the 2 eggs (little by little) and mix until a smooth, thick dough forms. Set the dough aside and let it rest in the refrigerator for about 6 hours to firm up. (overnight is best!)

2. Shape the Panellets:

   • After it's chilled and rested, divide the dough into small portions, rolling each into a ball (about 20g each or "cherry sized" ).

   • Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

3. Coat with Pine Nuts:

   • In a separate bowl, lightly beat the 3 egg yolks. Roll each dough ball in the egg to coat, then press the pine nuts around each ball to cover as fully as possible.

4. Bake:

   • Brush each panellet with the remaining egg yolk before placing them on the baking sheet.

   • Bake for 12–15 minutes or until the pine nuts turn golden.

5. Cool and Serve:

   • Let the panellets cool completely on a rack before serving.

Tip: Serve with a glass of Muscatel wine or glass of Moscato to keep it traditional! Enjoy your homemade Catalan panellets!

Want to plan your trip to Barcelona? Check out my E-book: A Beginner's Guide to Barcelona. Perfect for those of you planning a trip, coming for a study abroad or even considering moving to this beautiful city. This e-book gives you insight into the unique Catalan culture, as well as top-rated tours, recommended bars & restaurants, cultural differences and more!

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